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When it comes to riding a mechanical contraption we need to adapt the machine to meet the needs of the rider. The three places that can adapt and affect comfort are the handlebars, saddle and pedals. There are several ways to notice that something needs to change. There can be numbness, a crick in the neck or pain in various places. Most times an adjustment of the fit of the bike will help if not solve the problem. Sometimes the size of the frame is the problem. If you've got medical issues, the solution may be a special bike like a recumbent or upright bike.
In this article I'm covering the options that are simplest. These options will cost nothing but time if you have tools or a few dollars if you take it to a shop.
The saddle
Most bike seats or saddles slide forward and back. You loosen the adjustment bolt and the seat will adjust position. This is a fairly minor adjustment but in combination with the other two areas it can contribute to overall comfort.
The pedals/seat height
When people are new to cycling there is a bit of fear in balancing a bicycle. We want to be close to the ground. Hence, we often lower the seat so that we're not so far from the ground. Then, if we fall, we won't hurt ourselves. This is great if you're a toddler. I recommend it. If you're not a toddler you want to keep in mind that your leg muscles are most effective when extended fully. Bent double a leg muscle gets probably a tenth of the power out of your leg. When we come to a hill on a traditional bicycle, we often find ourselves rising out of the saddle to power up the hill. That is an example of our intuitive response as kids. We know that standing up gives us power. As an adult we may need to relearn that. In lieu of always standing up to get power we can adjust the seat height which will allow our legs to extend fully without getting out of the saddle.
With the proper frame size the seat height makes all the difference. It allows me to overcome most hills without leaving the saddle. Staying in the saddle also gives more stability to the ride. The adjustment of seat height is made by the bolt at the seat post at the top of the frame. You can look it up on youtube. I recommend the higher the better. You'll have to get used to it. I recommend practicing the new height for a while around your neighborhood. As you approach a stopping point come down from the saddle before the stop and stabilize. After a while this will become automatic.
Handlebars
There are two ways to adjust the handlebar position - forward and back is one method to adjust for comfort while up and down is another. There is lots of flexibility in adjusting the handlebar position. The stem rises from the frame and supports the bars. There are actually two parts: the stem and the stem extension. The stem adjusts vertical and the stem extension is available in different lengths.
Sometimes when the bike frame is a little short we can raise the handlebars to create a comfortable ride. I usually prefer a saddle height equal to the bar height. Some might find it better is the handlebar is higher than the saddle. A lower bar height can also put more body weight on your hands. That can make your hands numb or have other adverse effects.
When the bike frame is a little small you can adjust the handlebar forward by installing a longer stem extension on the frame. There is another option available to raise the bar position. There is a stem riser you can buy that will extend the vertical height of the bar position.
Overall, these different options give you a lot of latitude in adjusting the bike to your body. If any of the three options is out of adjustment to your body, you may experience numbness in hands or feet, joint or nerve pain or neck pain. The saddle does not have to be padded. A saddle that has too much padding can cause chafing between your legs. That is not a happy experience. I find an equal balance of weight distributed between the saddle, bars and pedals makes a world of difference in enjoying a ride.
